Butterleigh to Brixham
Distance: 45.5 miles
Time (hours): 4:16
Average Speed: 10.6 mph
Ascent: 2,959 ft
Pleasantly Stuffed
The pub in Butterleigh was a cracking, proper local with smart rooms, engaging staff and a terrific playlist in the bar. Even when we pestered them every few minutes, to ask what track was playing, they remained friendly and happy to oblige. The music selection was a compelling mix of Doobie Brothers, Stevie Wonder, Steely Dan and the like.
Both settling for fish and chips and an IPA, the evening meal left us pleasantly stuffed. Which couldn’t be said of the self-service breakfast. This was ‘continental’: heavy on the pastries and devoid of protein. And tea and coffee was extra. Really? But otherwise this was a really enjoyable stop-over.
Almost Comical
Today’s route profile had an almost comical peak at its centre. Before reaching that, there was some absolutely glorious cycling, along hedge-lined lanes through picturesque valleys. And the terrain was pleasantly undulating, making for a good riding tempo.
We stopped for coffee at a waterside cafe in Exeter. Which is really pretty. Who knew? Having ordered drinks, Rob spotted a sign saying ‘breakfast served’. So, we got in some much-needed protein in the form of scrambled eggs, served on butter-drenched toast. Yum. It took some effort, but eventually a smile was coaxed from the rather grumpy character serving.
Convoluted Cycleways
We got talking to a chap who arrived on an impressive (non-electric) bike, with extended front cargo space. On this, a basket was secured, in which was a beautiful, slender dog. He told us she was a rescue animal – part greyhound and part pit bull – named Willow. A keen (but not nerdy) cyclist, he was en-route to visit his elderly parents in Teignmouth. Recently, a driver had run into them both, injuring Willow then driving off without stopping. Unbelievable.
We said our goodbyes, then set about navigating the helpful but convoluted cycleways through waterside parks and alongside the main river’s tributaries. Having temporarily been diverted onto a busy road, we rejoined this network to find our friend – who’d been happily drinking his coffee when we left – ahead of us. No idea why we’d been sent the long way round.
Middle of Nowhere
A little further on, we started the day’s big climb. We gained a good deal of height on well-made roads and at a steady ascent. Stopping to rest near the top, Rob invoked a group of cyclist by taking a leak in plain sight. They were unperturbed and more concerned with a leak of their own, one of them having sustained a puncture. We offered a spare inner tube but they insisted a cycle shop was nearby. Which was a surprise, as we seemed to be in the middle of nowhere.
Aerial Maneouvres
Back at the café in Exeter, Brian had become excited when the Red Arrows flew by. At a later stop for tea (in a rather soulless, yet friendly, road-side eatery) a Lancaster bomber passed overhead. Then, as we approached Paignton, Brian was thrilled by the sight of Torbay Airshow‘s grand finale. This was a delta-winged fighter jet, he later discovered to be a BAE Typhoon, performing unfeasible aerial maneouvres. The plane’s parting shot was to rise vertically into the clouds until its engine roar – spookily – evaporated. Rob pointed out the irony of Brian’s enthusiasm, given the environmental – let alone humanitarian – impact of such machines. Guilty as charged.
Having a Lovely Time
From there, it was a straight forward climb up onto the headland and along the coast to Brixham, where our digs were conveniently situated at the top of the town. Here we spent a restful day off, strolling down to the harbour and its surrounds. Away from the tourist tat, there is a working fishing port and pretty, rocky beaches. Sitting on the shingle, Brian watched a seal gracefully arcing through the water, as all around him tourists stared at their phones. No doubt they were busy broadcasting what a lovely time they were having.
