Ashburton to Altarnun
Distance: 58.2 miles
Time (hours): 5:51
Average Speed: 9.9 mph
Ascent: 5,003 ft
Epic Ride
Today was an epic ride. We’re not sure if we’ve had such a combination of distance and climb on a tour leg before. Were we gigging tonight, it might be a tall order – if only from the point of view of having time to shower, refuel and set up in time to perform.
Before setting off, we were treated to scrambled eggs by our wonderful host, Rick. We could have stayed all day chatting but needed to get going, with a long day ahead of us. We did, however, promise to meet At Glastonbury,
Tough Start
So, we headed off across the compact hills surrounding Ashburton. Which made for a tough start to the day. But we kept a steady tempo and the threatening rain kept off. There followed a stretch shadowing the main road to Plymouth, sometimes on side roads, sometimes adjacent cycleways. Then, we joined the PIym Valley Trail, which follows the path of a former railway line.
This was fabulous, allowing us to smoothly gain height over the course of many miles. It afforded us stunning views of Dartmoor, sometimes from viaducts, which alleviated any need to descend the numerous valleys. After our show start, it was a joy to be eating up the miles on smooth, even surfaces.
Devastated
Occasionally, we were diverted onto common land, where sheep, cows and horses roomed freely. On the railway path, we’d got chatting with a couple of blokes who were on a length walk with their well-behaved springer spaniels. They told us of a nice pub at the edge of one such common. When we arrived, the staff had stopped serving food but were very accommodating, bringing our drinks over to the grass bank opposite. A little later, they said they were closing and asked us to leave our cups and glasses on the doorstep. Shortly alter which the walkers appeared – who were, in their own words, devastated.
As we progressed, views over Bodmin Moor opened up to our left. Leaving the railway path, the hills were now broader but the climbs nonetheless substantial. After a time following a quiet B road, we then joined a main route, just as the afternoon rush set in. Relieved to eventually leave this, we were then faced with more, energy-sapping steep climbs, before arriving at our destination.
Cracking Pub
Our digs were a generous room (two rooms, really) within a sprawling bungalow attached to a camp site. The owner was a compact, bearded fellow in his 60s, who claimed – when we asked after the local pub – never to have drunk alcohol. He said he’s also a preacher but that the two things are unrelated. We were allowed to wheel our bikes through the kitchen-cum-office and store them in a room attached to ours via wooden screens. It was all very old-fashioned but roomy, clean and cheap.
The Rising Sun pub was a 15-minute walk and a cracking place. The owner and chef, Tim, had trained at Rick Stein’s and La Gavroche. He clearly knew his stuff and there was a good mix of visiting diners and locals at the bar. Chatting at the end of the evening, he told us they have live music once a month and thought our style would fit well, should we make a return visit.
We’ll see…
