Altarnun to Treyarnon
Distance: 32.41 miles
Time (hours): 3:14
Average Speed: 10.0 mph
Ascent: 1,440 ft
Highest Point
First thing, we overrode our routing app’s suggestion of going round in a circle to rejoin the route. Instead, we retraced our steps, then began the hilly climb up onto Bodmin Moor. The landscape at the top was open and exposed, affording both expansive views and a goodly headwind.
Stopping to take this in, we got talking to the driver of a mini-bus that had passed us on the way. He was with a group from Truro College, who he’d sent off on a land navigation exercise. They were heading for ‘Brown Willy’ – a tor that could be seen a little way off. This, he reported, is the highest point in Cornwall. It was gratifying to know our efforts had brought us to within a few vertical feet of this pinnacle.
Generally Favourable
The cycling today was generally favourable, barring a couple of short, sharp ascents. Leaving the moor, we could now see the Atlantic to our right, complete with imposing coastal rock formations. On the way, we sampled our first pasties of the trip at a garage shop, which had provided the first opportunity to stock up on provisions. In Wadebridge, we stopped for a cuppa at a friendly pub. It occurred to us that everyone we had encountered in Devon and Cornwall had seemed genuinely pleased to see us and happy to chat.
Serious Inconvenienced
There had, however, today been some stretches of main roads on which a degree of fuck-wittery was in evidence. More than once, a head-on collision seemed on the cards, as drivers prioritised getting past us over their – and our – survival. Drivers, please note: the 10, 20, 30 seconds you may need to wait in order to safety pass a cyclist won’t prolong your journey. Once past, you will simply race on to the next impediment. However, a night in A & E, a week in Intensive Care or an early grave may seriously inconvenience you.
Camel Trail
At Wadebridge, we picked up the Camel Trail, following a beautiful stretch of disused railway alongside the estuary to Padstow. This was lined with colourful, spring flowers and passed between what looked like heaps of state from former mines. It also gave us a welcome section of cycling on the flat.
Here At Last
From Padstow, there were a few short climbs over the headland hills to reach Treyarnon, a stunning, rocky bay, hidden from view until you stumble upon it. Brian had been here on three previous occasions, with Rivers of England, and scheduled to play for a summer festival in 2020. This was to be the end point of his first cycling music tour but was scuppered by Covid.
So, it was all the more satisfying to be here – at last- on two wheels.
